Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children do not want to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
